Space Port Rebuild

 The Space Port module was next on the list to be rebuilt and the controller moved inside.  This includes completely rewiring this for lights and a motor.

There are LED lights on both sides of the first floor.   Also there are lights in the control tower.  One side will have two LED controls plus power.  The other side will have the equivalent two LEDs plus the LEDs for the control tower.  Here we run the wires from the controller over to where the axle goes up to the radar antenna.  By using the far hole, I can keep the wire under control.  The 1 x 2 modified plate with pin hole (part number 11458) is used to route the wire. 

This side had the motor, so it was a little more complicated, plus it had both the two LEDs plus the control tower.  I added the 1 x 6 technic brick to help route the wires and keep them away from the gears.  This also shows the single motor approach and gearing.  This is minimal gearing down, the rest of the slow down is handled by the PWM function in the Brick Buddy.

This just shows where the controller ended up.

 This shows how the motor cable was routed.  It is mounted underneath the 2 x 4 plate.  This holds the cable in place and keeps it from moving.

And the how the wiring connected to the Brick Buddy.
 

 This is the back 2/3 of the bottom floor with the flooring installed.  Also noticed how the exhaust grills are recessed.  I particularly like this look.

Now the support for the radar towers is built up.  I have changed the back since eventually there will be a path through the rock wall and into the hanger space.

 This gives a better view of the back.

 A view from the front.

The remaining bottom flooring and walls are now installed.  This part has not changed from the original, other than using module build techniques to be able to easier take it apart.

This composite shows how the wire comes up from under the flooring, through the radar tower support and then across the ceiling (not shown).  I used a 1 x 2 plate with pin hole to guide the wire a way from the axle.  It will then pass through the top of the wall.

Here is the completed first floor with all the walls.

This is how the LED lighting wiring was installed.  Again I use the 2 x 2 plate with pin holes and a 1 x 2 plate with pin hole to guide the wiring.

After building the cliff wall with the entrance built into the cliff, I modified the back slightly to have a better physical interface.

Completed Space Port, at least for now.

Cliff Rebuild

At Brick Fest Live in San Diego, during packup, I dropped a cliff onto the floor.  I did not have the presence of mind to take a photo.  Later I did not have the heart to take a photo of it in the box in pieces.  This picture above shows it after some reconstruction.

Here is the first floor and cliff support structure redone.  Nothing changed here.

Here I have finished the cliff support structure.  This cliff is the one that had the window built in.  I added a shelf with coffee and doughnuts.  Plus some non-descript bottles underneath.

A close up of the window.  I may need to clean this window eventually.

Here I have started the process of rebuilding the cliff.  Actually most of what you see, survived the drop.  

This is the finished cliff.

Now I need to reinstall the LED lighting.  I was never satisfied with what I had done in this section.  A single light in front of the Blacktron Logo was just not the answer.  I decide to install two.  Also the two top side computer screens were not really visible from the floor because of the posts for the transparent light blue windows.  So I move the computer screens out a few studs, so they are easier to see.

I had already run the wire from the connection point at the bottom, up through the hole in the first floor and behind the 1 x 1 round bricks.  In the support structure, I had used technic 1 x 4 bricks so I could take advantage of the holes in the bricks.  Since the wire was pretty much cut to size, I needed something to support the LED module while I soldered on it.  So I built a small work surface that would capture the LED module, thus I don't have to chase it across the space.

 Here is the second LED module prepped for soldering.

These two pictures show how the wire is captured and held in place.  There is a stack of two 1 x 1 round plates ( you can only see the tan one that is on top).   The wire is held in place by the gap between the two round plates.  It is just big enough to hold the twisted pair wire. 

The final result.  It is much better than before.

Brick Fest Live - Sacramento

 

 A week to go to Brick Fest Live Sacramento.  What will be new?

• The tower lights on the Floating Platform.  
• Hoping to have the beginnings of the cliff wall with the path way through for the Space Port.
• Some much needed maintenance

This may be the last show for the year.  I will be spending the upcoming winter working on finishing the cliff wall all they way around the display.  With that feature will come more detailed living areas (bunk room, gym, cafeteria) and hanger detail.

For now, we keep building😋

 

Floating Platform Tower Lights

 

There are two tower lights on the floating platform landing area.  They light up the landing area while the ships are loaded and loaded.  Here is how I did these.

Here we start in the corner.

We need to remove the plates that are in the corner.

Now we put in a 2 x 2 black plate and two 1 x1 round plates that will guide the wire.

Here the other two 1 x 1 round plates have captured the wire from the connector.

This is a different view that shows the connector in its final resting place, the wire running past the edge and the 1 x 2 brick with groove that the wire will run down.

Now a  2 x 3 plate caps the edge of the base plate and holds the 1 x 2 brick with groove that is guiding the wire around the outside of the base plate.

Here all of the tiles are in place that finish off the edge of the base plate and provide the connection points for the railing.

This shows the the wire running through the groove.  It is finished off with 2 x2 plates with pin holes to guide the wire to the power connection point.

I am using a surface mount LED that has a rating of 8000mcd @20mA.  The first thing I do to limit the heat applied is carefully and quickly tin the two leads as this shows.

I am using 100 ohm 1/10W resistors.  First I bend the lead 90 degrees as close the body as possible.  Then I bend the lead again 90 degrees, but perpendicular to the previous bend.  I end up with what this picture above shows.

Then I tin the resistor lead and solder to the correct LED terminal.

It is important to end up with the resistor perpendicular to the back side of the LED and in the center.

Now I take an electrical connector I have modified.  Run the wire from the bottom through the tower.  At the top of the tower is four 1 x 1 round plates so that the wire can be guided out.  On top of this is a 2 x2 turntable so that the light can rotate.  You then build it up with what you think are the appropriate details.  Again I use a lot of 1 x 1 round plates to guide the wire. I have gone though at least two different top designs.  There is no singular right answer, it is simply whatever fits you design style.

This is the final look.  You will need to run the wire through everything, since the LED will not fit through and Lego hole.   Thus you will be soldering on the wire after it has been thread up from the bottom of the tower.

These are two views of the LED mounted in the 2 x 2 round plate. You may need to something to force the LED to stay perpendicular to the spot light face.  A very small piece of foam, a small dab of hot glue or just some form of putty.

Here is the back side.  The resistor needs to be as close to the center as possible so it fits into the mating tube.

Here is the final look.

And this is what it looks like in the dark.  The amount of light is just perfect.  To say I am extremely please is an understatement.