Improved Power Distribution

 The hangers/covered corners contain the main power distribution feed. When there were only four of these, on either side of the main entrance, this was not that important.  But now that there are going to be at least four on each side, this needs some attention.  Each hanger had a standard two pin connector on each side and then a three connector block in the back.  The idea was that two hangers would connect together and form a power distribution path.  But that was using 30 gauge wire, which is not sufficient for the amount of current that will flow with four hangers/covered areas, four cliffs, four modules and an unknown number of powered platform connectors.  Thus I am changing the wiring in all these hangers/covered corners to 20 gauge.  I am also considering placing an electrolytic capacitor (100uF) in each one to help buffer the current when the motors turn on.  This backbone will run from the connection side, (right side on left modules and left side on right modules) to the other side of the platform as well as to the back. This shown in the picture above.

On some platforms, the opposite side is just a wire with connector.  When the two platforms slide together, the wire has to retract into the platform, otherwise it will prevent the two platforms from mating properly.

This shows the wire with connector.  I also had to put tiles in, since the wire was hanging up on the studs when the two platforms were pushed together and the wire was retracting back in.

More LED Wiring

The new additions all needed LED lighting.  I used the same techniques as before.  You can see the 2 x 2 modified plate with pin holes everywhere acting as a form of conduit.  What has changed is wire.  Instead of two 30 gauge wires twisted together, I am now using 2 conductor 30 gauge ribbon cable.  It is from the same company and has a silicone jacket so I don't have to worry about shrinkage when soldering.  Here is the Amazon link to the wire.  The twisted wire will actually go into smaller places than the ribbon cable.  This is because the twisted wire is more round and the ribbon cable is going to be rectangular.  Now with that said, that issue will not com up too many times.  

Here you can see I am going through the holes in the Technic bricks. This also serves to hold the wire up against the ceiling so it cannot be seen.

Another example of how to use the 2 x 2 modified plates.

What is interesting here is that the wire is small enough to go through the pins that are holding the Technic bricks together.  Thus when passing through Technic bricks there are few restrictions as to which holes can be used.

These just show placement of the LEDs and the 2 x 2 modified plates.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Building a Corner Section

 

This is a partial corner section behind the Space Port.  There are three pieces in this.  From right to left, the Space Port it self, the cliff section and then the covered area (which is the same as the hanger areas on the straight sections).  The cliff has two floors built into it.  The bottom floor includes a tunnel to the Space Port and staging area for missions.  The Top floor is an extension of the gym.  The covered area also has two floors.  The bottom floor is a mission planning area and an extension of the staging area in the cliff.  The top floor is a continuation of the gym. Since this is the end of the display, I also added a window on the end of the covered area.

The major issue with this build is the lack of post or support column for the top floor and the roof in one corner.  This is shown above as the 45 degree cutoff has no post.

This shows a closeup of the support structure underneath the top floor.  This is a labyrinth of Technic bricks and pins.  There are multiple right angle supports as well as box supports.  I should have taken the time to put this in Studio.  That would have allowed for a cleaner design.  This may still happen.  The same technique was used on the roof.

This shows the bottom floor mating with the next module.  Using 3 x 3, 4 x4 and 6 x 6 wedge pieces, I created a 45 degree edge on the bottom floor, top floor and roof.

It would seem that extending out the Technic bricks would be the simple solution.  But you have to careful not to impact the next module over.  Square brick ends and 45 degree angles do not mate well.

These show the finished base structure with opening on the top floor and the staircase going up. 

Space Gun Rebuild - Part 2

This is the wrap up of the Space Gun Rebuild.

The overhead section was redone back in April.  So nothing needed to be done here.  I did have to raise it one brick height so that it would clear the main Space Gun.  The Space Gun managed to go up slightly in this rebuild. 

I looked at different methods for securing the overhead section to the module base.  But as you can see here, there is not much room to do this.  Every idea I tried, always wanted space behind, which there is not any.  So I go with the simple connection there has always been.

The fourth motor is actually in the large turret and controls the elevation of the gun.  This needs to be redesigned, probably with a worm gear, but that is for another day.  The motor cable extension comes up through the base of the platform and then attaches to the the top of the platform, as shown above.  Because the bottom of the motor cable extender is the old 9V connector, it connects directly to the 2 x 2 space I left.  Then the power functions connector connects to the top. Neat and tidy.😊

Before the sand green tiles just extended to the back of the platform.  Now it stops and two small control areas are exposed.  

The front was also changed from sand green tiles to a more textured surface.  This also includes a grill track along each side of the main turret.

Then the front is various texture items, including remote control binoculars and two small dish antennas.

The results.  Compact, self contained and easy to setup.

Space Gun - Rebuild Part 1

 

 

 Since the cliff was finally built behind the space gun, it became time to rebuild the Space Gun.

Mostly because of this. This is the controller and the 9VDC power supply.  This controller goes behind the Space Gun and then underneath the cliff.  

Here you can see the controller sitting behind the Space Gun, this was never going to work.

This is what the inside of the Space Gun looks like. Being able to place a 4 channel motor controller in this space was not going to happen.  One of the approaches I have been working on is using 5VDC to power the motors instead of 9VDC.  Neither the original LEGO motors nor the Ebay replacements seemed to have an issue using 5VDC.  Don't know the long term effects.  I could not find anything during a quick search for this.

This book has been a valuable resource for ideas.  One of the great resources in this book is a table of gear ratios for the different gears.  After consulting this table, it was time to move to a worm gear.  They can give the largest gear reduction.  

These three pictures show the prototype implementation.  The worm gear drives the 24 tooth spur gear.  This in turn will drive a the small 8 tooth spur gear which finally drives the 400 tooth spur gear.  This gives a total reduction of 120:1.  Plus the 5VDC power input, this seems to make the right speed for these turrets. The 40 tooth gear is held in place with two Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Hub with 2 Axles, #27940. captured between two 1 x 2 bricks with axle holes.  The next issue will be placing the 40 tooth gear at the same height as the driving 8 tooth gear.  This is done by placing two Technic Bush 1/2 Toothed, Two Interior Ridges, #4265b on the axle.  This spaces the 40 tooth gear at the correct height.  Then another spacer keeps the gear down.

This shows the final implementation in the module.  I kept the turntable for the main Space Gun.  The turret is too large and unwieldy for the smaller turn table.

This picture shows the arrangement.  I used the 12 tooth double beveled gear to drive the turntable.  

Here is the complete module base with the three motors installed.

And this shows the module base with the controller installed and the motor cabling installed.

I can not place even the small turret on the 40 tooth gear.  The axle needs to be supported on both sides of the gear.  Thus I use a small turntable. What you can not see is the four 2 x 2 jumper plates in the placing the turn table hole in the correct space.  The hole needed to be offset 1/2 stud in both X and Y.  The L shaped plate shows where the axle will go through.  Instead of running the LED wire the entire depth of the module, to the back where the controller was, I now go through the top as soon as possible.  I originally was going to use a 2 x 4 technic plate with holes, but those holes are not big enough for the 2 pin connector I am using.  I created a 1 x 1 hole for the connector to pass through.

These two pictures show how the area is covered.

 More in the next installment.

 

Brickpoolza

A LEGO® Fan Festival, Exhibition, and Celebration

December 9, 2023

Placer Valley Event Center

Click here for more Information

 

 

Brickpalooza is only 6 days away now.  We have been working on the display updates all week (which is why no Blog updates) and for the most part we are done now.  Minor detailing is all that is left.

Hope to see you there.

Loose Ends #1

 I am starting a continuous series of posts of just small items.  Things that do not merit a full blog post by themselves, but are none the less interesting.

Sorting through a Bricklink order.  This can take a while depending on the size of the order.  I still continue to spend at least 20% of my build time, sorting and storing bricks.  Either ones I just bought or cleaning up after a build session.

The beginnings of the shower facility next to the gym.  Still needs the white round tiles for floor tiling.  The area to the left will be a soaking tub.  The area to the right will be the changing room.

The hanger that connects to the dining/gym/recreation area is getting a partial glass partition.  Instead of the open type it was before.  It would be nice to come up with a door of some type for the lower section.  Also not sure about the color scheme here.  I am thinking that the light blokish gray brick and the tan support needs to be black.  Just not sure yet.

This is where the Kitchen/serving area will be.  There will be four large menu screens.  The four areas will be appetizers, main course, desert and drinks.  It is not a huge space, but is buried towards the back, so it will look larger than it really is.

And that is all for now.