Wednesday, March 31, 2021

Setup Progress is Slow

I have spent the last several days setting up the development environment.  This has proven more difficult than I had originally thought.  I use two to three laptops.  One for the PC software and PIC firmware development, one for debugging (sometimes two when doing simultaneous debugging of PC and PIC) and one to just run the PC software.  

Two of these have been shutdown for 6 months.  One started right away, but the other insisted on a major Windows update.  Then it would not start again.  After much struggling and research, it finally completed the update and started.  

Since my last Android update, Google has changed Play Store requirements to all apps must be 64 bit.  This required a compiler update to the RAD Studio software I use (for both Android and PC).  Then one of the components on the PC side I use (power monitor instrument display) has issues with the latest version of the compiler.  I have been waiting for this to get resolved, but has not yet.  Additionally some other third party components need to be updated.  

The Brick Buddy 2 started and connected to the PC, however it does not seem to connect via Bluetooth.  Next steps is to verify what functionality still works and what does not.  Then I can develop a new plan to move forward.



Wednesday, March 17, 2021

Hand Gestures and Brick Building

I have been helping out a friend with an sculpture project.  We met many years ago when I managed a electrical/mechanical group and he managed the software group.  In his retirement he has taken up merging sculptures with electronics.  

One of the items he is implementing is hand gestures that then cause the sculpture to react in some manner.  While I am familiar with gesturing in the context of an Android mobile device, I have not looked into this area at all, until now.  As is the case with me, this exposure started me thinking about how I could implement this.  Unfortunately these "idea storms" come upon me when I am trying to sleep.  This results in a conflict, one part of me is trying to process the flood of ideas while another part is trying to shut it all down so I can sleep.  Sense I am writing this, it is easy to see which part won.

My first thoughts were how to implement this in the train layout.  It would be great if I could swipe my hand over a switch and the switch change direction.  Or the same with a signal and the signal toggle state.  The ultimate would be to make a gesture over an engine, which would cause the engine to perform some operation.  This could also be applied to the lighting in the layout, setting up a track sequence (switches and signals) or an automated scenery display.

Once I had exhausted that line of thinking, I started thinking about how I could control a large Brick display (like my Planetary Space Base build).  Start and stop action, change the lighting conditions, reveal parts that are hidden, start,select,stop the music or any number of other ideas.   

The design my friend is using is a Sparkfun ADSP-9660.  This uses an I2C interface to setup and communicate the gesture information.  The Brick Buddy II has I2C interfaces.  At the present time, they are not exposed to the user.  This is probably something that is going to have to change.  The major issue will be finding space for the connector and what type of connector to use.  

I2C requires 2 lines and a ground connection.  The ADSP-9660 requires a power source for the IC itself and another for the embedded IR LED that is the light source it uses.  This IR LED can require 12mA to 300mA, depending on the implementation conditions, e.g. distance to the human body and the amount of material the IR signal must pass through (plastic or glass).  The connector could be a 2 pin and the ground is acquired through the power source for the ADSP-9660.  Best practice would be to include a signal ground with the I2C signals, though.

Well for now it is just an idea, but I will be talking more with my friend who inspired the sleepless night.  Up til now I have been providing advice on PCB layout and how to supply power to all of the electronics in the sculpture.  Going forward I will be asking a lot more questions on actual implementation and how much success he has had with this concept of using hand gestures to control the sculpture. 

Monday, March 15, 2021

Development Roadmap

There are several items I would like to get done before the end of the year.  My list is probably overly ambitious considering everything, but without goals, I find it hard to stay focused.  There is no particular order here, though Brick Buddy II is probably the highest priority.

 

Brick Buddy II 


 

I very much want this to be done and ready for use.  This has been sidetracked by the move, the virus and various other things.  But now all of that is mostly behind us, so we can move on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Planetary Space Base Expansion



 

 

 

 

 

I have some great ideas on how to make this better and bigger.  Most of it depends on Brick Buddy II.

 

Train Tools

There are two items here.  One I have lots of small displays I acquired years ago.  I want to turn these into billboards for HO train layouts.  They can be loaded with changing displays or a static display.  Also  I have an idea for a battery operated track cleaner.  It would use track power unless the track is too dirty, then it would run on a rechargeable battery. It would also provide real time information back about the track voltage so you could find dead spots via a Bluetooth link and a mobile app.

 

So we will see if all of this can be done and just how long it will take.

 

Friday, March 12, 2021

Product Review

Our products are broken down into a few different categories.  These are

  • Electronic Building Power Modules
  • Electronic Building Tools
  • Brick Building Tools
  • Model Train Tools 
  • Soft Wear

The first three are described below,  The Model Train Tools are still under development.  The Soft Wear consists of themed shirts, pillow cases and quilts we do for shows or special order.  Contact us if you are interested.

Electronic Building Power Modules

These modules all accept a standard USB connection via a USB Mini connector and then generate different voltages to power up your electronic projects.  They are designed to plug into standard bread board with 100 mil spacing.  The modules can deliver a total of about 7W.  More information is available on the web site, here.


Our basic USB powered power system.  The module accepts a standard USB connection and produces the following voltages:

  • Pass through VUSB
  • 3.3VDC
  • 2.5VDC
  • 1.8VDC

 

 

 

Our regulated USB powered power system.  The module accepts a standard USB connection and produces the following regulated voltages:

  • 5.0VDC
  • 3.3VDC
  • 2.5VDC
  • 1.8VDC


 

 

Our higher voltage USB powered power system.  The module accepts a standard USB connection and produces the following voltages:

  • 12VDC
  • 5.0VDC
  • 3.3VDC

 

 

 

 Electronic Building Tools

Our voltage and current monitor.  Monitors up to 4 channels.  Comes with PC Windows and Android software, that allows you to monitor and record.  Also contains internal memory storage to collect for hours or up to days (depending on the collection rate) and then download.  Designed to be placed in line with one of our power modules above.  There are two versions, USB only and USB/Bluetooth for mobile applications. 

More information is available on the web site, here.




Our Temperature sensor.  The unit is Bluetooth enabled for mobile monitoring and comes with internal memory storage to collect hours or up to days depending on collection rate and power source and then download.

More information is available on the web site, here.





Brick Building Tools

A modified version of our USB powered power modules.  This provides 9V to power Brick motors, typically Power Functions motors.  It will also supply 5VDC and 3.3VDC that can be used to power smaller motors and electronics.  Comes with an adapter for the Motor Extension cables.

More information is available on the web site, here.





Our Brick Controller.  Use this to power up your MOC and have it control the motors and the lights.  Has a USB and Bluetooth interface and enough internal storage for about 60 instructions.  Will control up to four independent motors and 4 LEDs.  Comes with two adapters for the Motor Extension cables.

More information is available on the web site, here.



 

 

 

 


 

Thursday, March 11, 2021

Vaccine Day

Very short post:  

Today we get our first vaccine shot.  Not sure what will happen, hopefully it will not effect us for very long.

Wednesday, March 10, 2021

A Few Things We Did

Here are a few of the projects we have done over the last few months while changing residences.

Built in Cabinets for Alcove

We had this 6'+ wide, 20" deep and 10' tall alcove in the sewing room.  So we bought three 24" wide 18" deep and 84" high unfinished Birch pantry cabinets from Home Depot.  It was well worth the $75 to have them delivered.  These cabinets were OK, not top of the line.  The two biggest problems was size consistency between the three pantries and the panels in the doors showed multiple defects after they were stained.  This might not have been true if we painted them.

I removed the baseboard, built a 1.5" platform so the toe kick would be high enough for the baseboard to be put back.  Finally had to add 1"x 3" strips of Birch hardwood on either side to fill in the gap enough that a 3/4" trim board would cover any remaining gap.

Then I added three 24" wide, 30" high and 12" deep matching wall cabinets.  To support the final moulding on the top, I had to add another 1"x4" Birch hardwood board across the top.  I used the Stain and Poly in one finish from Behr.  It did not go on well with a bristle brush or a foam brush, at least I was not very successful.  This was especially true on the panel inserts on the doors.  I changed to a paint sprayer which did a much better job. But not having much experience with this, especially with stain, it took a while to get the motion down.  But this required applying more coats than I wanted to and thus resulted in a darker color.

This is the final look.  Darker than what we wanted, but that was the cost of learning how to use a paint sprayer.


New Work Bench and Lab

I used the same cabinet series as the alcove for the work bench and lab in the garage.

 The counter top area is 16' long and 26" deep.  It is still a work in progress.



Tuesday, March 9, 2021

Billy Bookcase Hack Part 4

 The Final Two Feet

Well this is the final part.  It was a little longer than a short description.


This closet has 10 foot ceilings.  While that space can only be reached with a stool or a ladder, it is still valuable storage space.  There is a major flaw though in just using this space as shown in the picture.  The two 45 degree bookcase have a triangular opening behind them.  If something falls into this opening, it is 8 feet down.  Retrieving any items that fall down there would be difficult to near impossible.

My solution was to build a topper.  Unfortunately I dont have any pictures of the build process, so I will describe in some detail.  I started with a 4'x8' piece of 1/2" sanded plywood (ACX type)  I purchased this at Home Depot and they cut it length wise at 2'.  The was mostly so I could transport it home.  I then took some 24" wide butcher paper and made a template of both sides.  The left template covered from the back wall to the front wall (within about 2") and the right template from the back wall to the end of the bookcase on that side.

Placed the templates on the two pieces of 1/2" plywood and cut them out using a Dremel Saw-Max and a hand held Jig saw.  Performed a dry fit and made some minor tweaks to the cuts.  To provide proper support in the far corners, I placed two ledger boards of  1"x2"lumber in each corner to provide the corner support.

Putting these plywood pieces in for the dry fit, was difficult, especially the left side.  There was not a lot of room to maneuver.  This led me to build this last two feet with dowels so that it could be assembled in place if necessary. Using standard melamine shelving, I ripped this down to same width as the Billy Bookcases are deep.  On the left side of the closet I used four pieces, one  18" long and two 22" long as vertical support pieces and then one long piece as the top.  I did cut dadoes in the two 22" vertical pieces for the top piece.  The reason for the 22" will be explained later.  Finally I cut a piece of the 1/2' sanded plywood to form a back.  To better accommodate the back, I cut rabbits or reduced the width in all the melamine support pieces.  The one center vertical support piece I lined up with the vertical side pieces of the bookcases below.  This is where the 30" and 15" bookcase meet.  

NOTE: In retrospect I should have lined this up with right side of the 30" bookcase instead of the left side of the 15" bookcase.  If you know what to look for, you can see a large gap under the vertical style that covers this vertical piece.  This gap would have been on the far side when looking at this area from the closet entrance and would have looked much better.

The right side of the closet was similar, except there was no vertical support piece, just the two 22" end pieces and the long top piece.  The remainder was built the same as the left side.

I knew from the dry fit that the left side would have to go in first.  I would need the space on the right side to maneuver this into place.  After a few unsuccessful tries to place the assembled shelf in place, I gave up.  It was not going to fit.  I was fairly certain that without the bottom plywood, it would fit.  So I took a chance and screwed in the top melamine piece and the back plywood piece.  Also this would be needed for this shelf piece to have the necessary stability to be maneuvered into place.  The bottom relied on the dowels and the weight of the upper part.  I then placed the bottom plywood piece in place with the dowels protruding.  This was the easy part.  Through some careful maneuvering and a little help, I managed to move the shelf into place and it slipped down onto the dowels.  I then realized I could slide the entire shelf out.  That allowed me to place screws from the bottom through the plywood and into the left vertical support and the middle vertical support.  

I carefully moved the entire assembly back into place.  At this point I secured the entire assembly by using screws inserted into the vertical sides of the bookcase height extensions below.  This is why I was not concerned about the attachment of the height extensions.  These two top shelves secure and stabilize the extensions.  The right side moved into place as single piece and was attached to the height extensions.

The final part was to finish off the bookcase trim.  Finished off the bottom with the baseboard I removed from the closet in the very beginning.  Installed a 4" piece of melamine on the top in the shelf between the to two 22" vertical supports.  This was done on both sides.  A small soffit was built out of the melamine and place on the back wall between the two sides.  This was needed to support the crown moulding.  I then wrapped this top section with high density MDF casing material to provide the final support for the crown moulding.  To cover up the vertical joints between the individual bookcases, I ripped down high density MDF casing and place this over the joints. Finally I did the same thing to cover the horizontal transitional between the top of the height extensions and the 1/2" plywood.  

The final result is shown below.  A careful look will show that two vertical styles are missing.  Some of the items in the back wall bookcase consume the entire width of the bookcase.   For the styles to work, they need to be cut with a 22.5 degree angle on both sides.  That would be a trapezoid with about a 1" base and a less than 3/4" top.  Ripping this on the table saw was not something I was up for right now.  So I have left them off while I use the bookcase and determine what might happen in the future.


 
 
To Do List
  1. Not sure I like the Sheetrock showing on the back wall at the top.  Maybe I will place melamine board over this or just paint this area white.
  2. Make a final decision about the last two styles.
  3. Some painting to coverup some dings I created while installing the bookcases.